Aloha Mahalo
I’m currently kicking it island style with a couple of guys from UH (the University of Hawaii). They’re kindly letting me sleep on their floor.
I gave my talk on Friday afternoon - which was well received and followed by free beers for the speaker - respect!
Today we hit up Sandy Beach, the notorious east side, bone crunching shorebreak. Life savers here do more rescues than at any other Hawaiian surf beach, mostly spinals. It lived up to its reputation. I got up after a few heavy beat-downs with stars in my eyes.
It was only about 2-3ft hawaiian, but the bottom sucks out of the waves and it’s big enough to be scary. A friend of the guys has seen it breaking at 40ft!
I was riding an old Morey Boogie (the first bodyboards ever made, by the legend Tom Morey - inventor of bodyboarding) - without fins. The other day I hired a longboard and had a great surf at Waikiki. Although it was crowded, only a few people out there could actually surf and I got about 5 good long rides in 1 hour. This is the place where the Duke started surfing - so it’s been a bit of a pilgrimage.
www.hawaiianwatershots.com (where the photo above is from) has a great range of photos of Oahu’s swells. The latest photos are mostly from the week before I got here. While I was being all cultural in Vancouver the guys here were getting shacked out of their minds. Here’s a gallery of Bowls, a spot to the west of Waikiki proper.
I’m planning on renting a moped and riding up to the north shore tomorrow. On monday I might meet up with the guys at coconut island research station, before going hiking on Tuesday and flying home that night.
September 25th, 2005 at 6:11 pm
the photo on your posting looks like scotts head
the others on the web-link don’t look like it at all
swans won the final - very exciting - very close - 58/54
cowboys into the final next week - TRASHED Parramatta 29/0
hawaiians seem to be a very friendly lot
how come you are having so much fun?????
September 25th, 2005 at 6:29 pm
they are different spots!
omg, didn’t even know the swans were in the final!
go the cowboys
they are friendly, but some are slightly heavy
fun? I’m working, if you don’t mind
September 25th, 2005 at 6:38 pm
what does mahalo mean?
i do get that they are different spots - that’s what I tried to imply - there are some problems with inflection/emphasis in computer talk.
enjoy tomorrow- looking forward to the photos
September 25th, 2005 at 6:39 pm
just as well that Zoe has her flight booked - the cowboys fans will soak up every free form of tranpsort
September 25th, 2005 at 9:32 pm
Mahalo means thank you.
The gallery is of a spot that never gets that big, it was like a 1 in 10-20 year swell. Everyone has been talking about how “all time” that swell was.
Plans have changed slightly. Going to go surfing at Waikiki tomorrow for more long boarding - or to Diamond Head, then probably rent a scooter on Monday and check out some stuff. The guys I’m staying with are going to a lab meet. so I’ll probably just entertain myself for the day…
Yeah, lucky that I’ll be seeing Zoe soon. She’s cool
September 26th, 2005 at 11:51 am
That looks phat, “all the best bodyboarders must be there”
September 27th, 2005 at 9:50 am
“We know that Mike Stewart is the best bodyboarder in the world”
“Is it Mike, or Mark?”