Comments on: Save or save http://tomandzoe.com/log/2007/02/restore-or-save/ tales of life from North Queensland, Australia Thu, 08 Jan 2009 21:27:11 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.5.1 By: kathleen http://tomandzoe.com/log/2007/02/restore-or-save/#comment-6858 kathleen Wed, 07 Feb 2007 03:47:09 +0000 http://tomandzoe.com/log/?p=578#comment-6858 cars rule... cars rule…

]]> By: Tim from baseball http://tomandzoe.com/log/2007/02/restore-or-save/#comment-6857 Tim from baseball Wed, 07 Feb 2007 03:20:01 +0000 http://tomandzoe.com/log/?p=578#comment-6857 Well from the looks of it all you need to do is get the spokes to lace to the v's and some new chainrings and cassette/freewheel. Is the rear hub casette or freewheel? I think it might be a bit hard getting a freewheel these days. Unless you don't like the length of the cranks I wouldn't get new ones unless you see yourself upgrading your full groupo to 10 speed. Much cheaper to buy all the parts as a group than individually. If all you need is the spokes/chainrings/cassette then it should cost you less than $400, nowhere near $1000. If you haven't come across this site:http://www.moruyabicycles.com.au/, then have a look for the parts here as they have good prices and free postage (australian too). And if you change your chainrings/cassette/freewheel you MUST get a new chain unless you want parts that wear out in an instant. Well from the looks of it all you need to do is get the spokes to lace to the v’s and some new chainrings and cassette/freewheel. Is the rear hub casette or freewheel? I think it might be a bit hard getting a freewheel these days. Unless you don’t like the length of the cranks I wouldn’t get new ones unless you see yourself upgrading your full groupo to 10 speed. Much cheaper to buy all the parts as a group than individually. If all you need is the spokes/chainrings/cassette then it should cost you less than $400, nowhere near $1000. If you haven’t come across this site:http://www.moruyabicycles.com.au/, then have a look for the parts here as they have good prices and free postage (australian too). And if you change your chainrings/cassette/freewheel you MUST get a new chain unless you want parts that wear out in an instant.

]]> By: tom http://tomandzoe.com/log/2007/02/restore-or-save/#comment-6855 tom Wed, 07 Feb 2007 02:50:31 +0000 http://tomandzoe.com/log/?p=578#comment-6855 No, it's all good. I have Campy Mirage brakes on the Europa, which features 700c wheels... The bike is great - the only problem being a slightly long head tube. http://tomandzoe.com/photos/cache/400/general/2006/12/bike.jpg No, it’s all good. I have Campy Mirage brakes on the Europa, which features 700c wheels… The bike is great - the only problem being a slightly long head tube.

http://tomandzoe.com/photos/cache/400/general/2006/12/bike.jpg

]]> By: Tim from baseball http://tomandzoe.com/log/2007/02/restore-or-save/#comment-6854 Tim from baseball Wed, 07 Feb 2007 01:56:51 +0000 http://tomandzoe.com/log/?p=578#comment-6854 hey Dr.tom congrats on the degree, $1000 to rebuild the europa! sounds like you want 2/3 a new dura ace groupie! for cheap parts check out http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?cat=Groupsets As a mech engineering student i would advise you to stick with steel. The advances in non-metalic materials in the last few decades are amazing but are still unpredictable in the real world. Ounce you've snaped a carbon frame theres nothing you can do but chuck it in landfill (non-recyclable and non-repairable). If you snap a steel frame you can just replace the tube (i'm assuming you have a lugged frame) and if you can't be bothered repairing it at least it's recyclable. Also, old parts will work perfectly well if a) they arent broken, bent, etc and b) you take the time to adjust the brakes and derailleurs properly. (just because they don't have ramps on the chain wheels doen't mean they will slip - I might suggest that the range of motion on the derailleur may be too far or the bb axle is slightly bent) If you decide on new gear then you might want to keep your old brakes. 700c wheels are slightly smaller than older 27" wheels and as a result on your older frame with new wheels the new brakes MAY not reach the rim. Older brakes tend to have fairly long arms so can reach with new wheels. The new campy ultra torque cranks look like a really good design that shouldn't wear out or break in a very long time. Final point, don't buy the top of the range parts becuase they're pretty/the pros use them/they weigh less than air. To get the light weight there are sacrifices the engineers have made that may lead to premature breaking. Well you probably knew all that already so I've just wasted my time, Tim hey Dr.tom congrats on the degree,

$1000 to rebuild the europa! sounds like you want 2/3 a new dura ace groupie! for cheap parts check out http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?cat=Groupsets
As a mech engineering student i would advise you to stick with steel. The advances in non-metalic materials in the last few decades are amazing but are still unpredictable in the real world. Ounce you’ve snaped a carbon frame theres nothing you can do but chuck it in landfill (non-recyclable and non-repairable).
If you snap a steel frame you can just replace the tube (i’m assuming you have a lugged frame) and if you can’t be bothered repairing it at least it’s recyclable. Also, old parts will work perfectly well if a) they arent broken, bent, etc and b) you take the time to adjust the brakes and derailleurs properly. (just because they don’t have ramps on the chain wheels doen’t mean they will slip - I might suggest that the range of motion on the derailleur may be too far or the bb axle is slightly bent)

If you decide on new gear then you might want to keep your old brakes. 700c wheels are slightly smaller than older 27″ wheels and as a result on your older frame with new wheels the new brakes MAY not reach the rim. Older brakes tend to have fairly long arms so can reach with new wheels.
The new campy ultra torque cranks look like a really good design that shouldn’t wear out or break in a very long time. Final point, don’t buy the top of the range parts becuase they’re pretty/the pros use them/they weigh less than air. To get the light weight there are sacrifices the engineers have made that may lead to premature breaking.

Well you probably knew all that already so I’ve just wasted my time,

Tim

]]> By: tom http://tomandzoe.com/log/2007/02/restore-or-save/#comment-6848 tom Wed, 07 Feb 2007 00:55:57 +0000 http://tomandzoe.com/log/?p=578#comment-6848 That's what I was thinking... Unless it falls between the rings?? That’s what I was thinking… Unless it falls between the rings??

]]> By: timtim http://tomandzoe.com/log/2007/02/restore-or-save/#comment-6839 timtim Tue, 06 Feb 2007 21:25:02 +0000 http://tomandzoe.com/log/?p=578#comment-6839 Is he sure that's not just because the stop screws have not been adjusted properly? The chain doesn't just fal off, it generally needs to be pushed Is he sure that’s not just because the stop screws have not been adjusted properly? The chain doesn’t just fal off, it generally needs to be pushed

]]> By: tom http://tomandzoe.com/log/2007/02/restore-or-save/#comment-6838 tom Tue, 06 Feb 2007 21:07:10 +0000 http://tomandzoe.com/log/?p=578#comment-6838 This from Mark E. at JCU, who recently restored a Concorde to near mint condition. <blockquote>My advice, SAVE UP! I’ve spent so much money on mine and it’s still not 100% right. When I change from the little chainring to the big one the chain keeps falling off, not because they are worn, but just cos they are an old design with no ramps. So I went to get a couple new chainrings but that was going to cost over $120. It works out cheaper to buy a whole new crankset but nobody makes cranksets for a square taper bottom bracket even though I’ve replaced my bottom bracket with a brand new ultegra grade square taper bottom bracket. I eventually found some 2005 stock square taper cranks online for $80 so I’ve ordered them. So the original cranks that I spent hours polishing are now pretty much useless. </blockquote> This from Mark E. at JCU, who recently restored a Concorde to near mint condition.

My advice, SAVE UP! I’ve spent so much money on mine and it’s still not 100% right. When I change from the little chainring to the big one the chain keeps falling off, not because they are worn, but just cos they are an old design with no ramps. So I went to get a couple new chainrings but that was going to cost over $120. It works out cheaper to buy a whole new crankset but nobody makes cranksets for a square taper bottom bracket even though I’ve replaced my bottom bracket with a brand new ultegra grade square taper bottom bracket. I eventually found some 2005 stock square taper cranks online for $80 so I’ve ordered them. So the original cranks that I spent hours polishing are now pretty much useless.

]]> By: zoe http://tomandzoe.com/log/2007/02/restore-or-save/#comment-6796 zoe Tue, 06 Feb 2007 12:22:22 +0000 http://tomandzoe.com/log/?p=578#comment-6796 *cough* (more. important. investments.) *cough* *cough* (more. important. investments.) *cough*

]]> By: Benwah http://tomandzoe.com/log/2007/02/restore-or-save/#comment-6782 Benwah Tue, 06 Feb 2007 07:33:02 +0000 http://tomandzoe.com/log/?p=578#comment-6782 Hmmmm, I was just faced with the same decision restore my late 80's Steel frame italian jobbie or purchase a new steed, in the end the 'shiny thing' factor won out and I ended up going for a new bike (not a full carbon whatsamajigger but it's sub 9KG which is good I think?) of course my old bike was wayyyy too big for me resulting in my mileage being limited mostly by my neck pain. Plus, my knowledge of restoration is small, and I'm lazy when it comes to stuff like that. FMPOV If you have the motivation and ability to restore your Europa and restored if it would be near as dammit performance, comfort and safety wise to a new bike then yeah, restoration is the way to go (NB I have a secondary motive of wanting to see you blog about it for my own entertainment of course) Good luck mate (PS, I'm Andys mate, Ben, Hello again) Hmmmm, I was just faced with the same decision restore my late 80’s Steel frame italian jobbie or purchase a new steed, in the end the ’shiny thing’ factor won out and I ended up going for a new bike (not a full carbon whatsamajigger but it’s sub 9KG which is good I think?) of course my old bike was wayyyy too big for me resulting in my mileage being limited mostly by my neck pain.

Plus, my knowledge of restoration is small, and I’m lazy when it comes to stuff like that.

FMPOV If you have the motivation and ability to restore your Europa and restored if it would be near as dammit performance, comfort and safety wise to a new bike then yeah, restoration is the way to go (NB I have a secondary motive of wanting to see you blog about it for my own entertainment of course)

Good luck mate (PS, I’m Andys mate, Ben, Hello again)

]]> By: timtim http://tomandzoe.com/log/2007/02/restore-or-save/#comment-6777 timtim Tue, 06 Feb 2007 04:11:41 +0000 http://tomandzoe.com/log/?p=578#comment-6777 I say tweak what you have with as little cash as you can and then get yourself a beautiful steel raodie from the monkey, they would be able to custom out a sweet ride exactly the way you want it for not huge dollars. Don't go carbon, everyone has that shite you are far above that in the class stakes Tom, don't be a small man I say tweak what you have with as little cash as you can and then get yourself a beautiful steel raodie from the monkey, they would be able to custom out a sweet ride exactly the way you want it for not huge dollars. Don’t go carbon, everyone has that shite you are far above that in the class stakes Tom, don’t be a small man

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